Friday, September 29, 2017

Hub Centric Rings

What is Hub Centric Ring? 

The hub centric ring is a device used with the aftermarket wheels and are installed between the car wheel hub and the wheel. The purpose of the hub centric ring is to fill the empty space between the wheel hub and the center bore of the wheel. Hub centric rings are usually made of durable industrial plastic or aluminum.

Why needed? 

Hub centric rings are needed when the hub hole (the center bore) on the wheel is larger (typically 73.1mm) than the wheel hub of the car. The wheel manufacturers deliberately make the hub ring as large as possible for the rim, taking in to consideration the hub hole, to allow the same wheels to be sold for the various different models of car using hub centric rings.

Hub centric rings are usually needed only for aftermarket wheels, since the original wheels usually come with a center bore of the right size. Usually the hub centric rings are used with alloy wheels, but sometimes steel rims may need hub centric rings.


The purpose of the centric ring is to perfectly center the alloy wheel to the wheel hub and hence prevent vibration to the steering wheel during driving and the shaking which typically appears around speeds of 40-60 mph.

Steering Angle Sensor Reset

    The steering angle sensor (SAS) is a critical part of the ESC (Electronic Stability Control) system that measures the steering wheel position angle and rate of turn. A scan tool can be used to obtain this data in degrees.
    Many vehicles require the SAS be reset or recalibrated after an alignment is performed or parts in the steering system are replaced. If the SAS is out of calibration, most vehicles can tell if they are traveling in a straight line, but if the angle is too far off, the ESC could become disabled. If the steering angle sensor is not reset, the ESC system will be disabled and some warning lights will appear on the dashboard. ABS, Traction Control, Stability Control and other systems may be disabled. After an alignment is performed on a vehicle equipped with a Steering Angle Sensor, it is required by the manufacturer to reset the system.
* Steering Angle Sensor Reset is not optional. If car requires it, it MUST be performed.

* Most cars from 2008 and up have SAS. Some cars before 2008 still have it. If car does not have ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System), it will not have ESC.

* For ESC (Electronic Stability Control), different manufacturers use different names, such as ASC, DSC, ESP, PSM, VDC, VSA, VSC, etc.

Puncture Repair

1. The puncture must be within the crown of the tire. (About 2-inches from each sidewall.)
2. The puncture must also be no larger than a pencil thickness. Approximately 3/16-inch or less.
3. If the sidewall has been compromised, (driven on with low pressure) the tire must be replaced.
4. Run Flat Tires can be repaired just like radial tires so long as the integrity of the tire hasn't been compromised. The tire must be removed to inspect for inside damage.



This picture shows the inside of a tire that has been compromised. Notice the bits of rubber compound. Also, you will see a 'Worm' style tire plug. These plugs are not recommended and are considered a temporary fix. In many cases these plugs will still leak air.
 
Here is the outside of the tire that faces the inside of the vehicle. The wear mark on the side wall indicates the tire has been driven on with low pressure, AKA Ran Flat.






This is the same tire. But this is the side facing outward on the vehicle. Most people only look at this part of the tire. As you can see, it looks to be in good condition. As we saw in the previous pictures, we know this tire has been compromised and is unsafe to drive on. This is why you must always inspect the whole tire, inside and outside.  




Here is a good example of a tire that is NOT repairable. The nail has punctured the shoulder of the tire. Punctures on the shoulder or sidewall can NOT be repaired. This tire will need to be replaced and can be claimed under "Road Hazard Warranty", if applicable.